Entry 4: Heading up the coast to Galway

We left Dingle on a particularly foggy morning and drove north through Tralee and caught the ferry from Trabert across the mouth of the Shannon River.  From Trabert, we drove along the west coast, stopping in Lehinch for lunch.

This little beach town seemed like a good place to spend a little bit more time.  It had some of the same, laid back beach feel of Long Beach or some similar Pacific Coast town, except with Gaelic signs and a lot more pubs.  I had fish and chips with a local fish out of the Irish Sea--Hake.

Our next stop was supposed to be the Cliffs of Moher, one of the most famous sights on the island.  The fog had other plans.  After driving through several places that sounded like stops in Tolkien's Middle Earth, we began winding uphill toward the cliffs.  The fog got thicker and thicker.  By the time we reached the park's ticket gate and parking lot, visibility was less than 50 yards.  At what I am told is the edge of the Cliffs, we couldn't even see the edge.  The postcards in the gift shop were pretty....

After giving up on the Cliffs, we meandered our way through the Burren...

stopped at Dunguaire Castle...

then drove through Galway to check in at our B&B in Salthills.

Entry 3: Connor Pass and Dingle's Food & Wine Festival

Our second day in Dingle was divided between two distinct activities. The first was a drive to the top of Connor Pass. The first 75% of the drive was calm and peaceful, the last 25% was a bit hair raising--single lane, sharp turns, and a cliff edge. I drove there and Isaac drove back. I'm still not sure if it was scarier as the passenger or the driver. Thankfully, the trip was worth it. The view from the scenic pull-off was quite nice, but the real treat was the perfectly calm lake we happened upon above the lookout. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

We spent the second half of the day at Dingle's Food a Wine Festival. I love festivals so it was a welcome surprise to see the signs around town when we arrived on Thursday. The concept was simple. Purchase a passbook with twenty tickets and then use the guide map restaurant descriptions to decide where to use them. Here's a list of what we ate:

• The Little Cheese Shop: Ras
• Paul Geaney's: Gourmet burger
• The Dingle Pub: Steamed mussels with wine, garlic and cream
• Happy Garden Place: Soup and a spring roll
• Finn McCool's Surf Shop: Aussie BBQ (Kangaroo)
• O'Cathain's Fish Shop: BBQ'd prawns and scallops
• Chowder Cafe: Seafood chowder and pan fried mackerel on a warm potato salad
• Waterside Restaurant: Suckling Pig
• Fish at the Marina: Teriyaki salmon skewers and warm sake shot
• Novecento Gourmet Shop: Pizza
• Adn Danlann Gallery: Fudge
• Courtney's Bakery: Confectioneries

  

  Isaac enjoying suckling pig (note the pig in the background)

Melted Raclette cheese, crunchy skin and all!

 

 

 

 

The melt above was created with the contraption in the middle of this picture.  The cheese is placed under the horizontal metal bar that melts the top layer with a propane flame.  The melted cheese is then scraped onto a piece of bread.  Yum!

Entry 2: Touring the Dingle Peninsula

Friday, September 30th

Having paid for breakfast as part of the B&B price really helped me get up in the morning--that, and serious jet lag confusion.  Bacon in Ireland is a lot thicker, saltier, and tastier than generic American bacon.  It's more like 1/8" thick slabs of ham...

Downtown Dingle

Dingle Farmer's Market provided bread, scones, and a locally made cream cheese for lunch.  We then set out on "The Dingle Loop", as recommended by our travel guru, Rick Steves.  (It felt really weird to keep mentioning what "Rick recommends..." the whole trip, so we alternatively referred to him as "Mr. Steves", "Steve-O", "Señor Steve", etc.)  Being our first day in country, we did make on rookie mistake, and paid for admission to the "Famine Cottage".  The road signs looked so official that I didn't think to ask "What would Rick do?" and check his book for guidance.  Instead, we paid a lot for a moderately informative but poorly maintained private site.  For example, check out my Facebook photos for an "informative" sign about a random pet deer.  What is s/he doing next to a famine cottage in Dingle? I don't know, 'cause the writing faded off this sign in the 90s!  (I tried to post the photo here, but Andrea said to keep my dumb deer photo off the blog.)

View from Slí Cheann Sléibhe

After our detour at the famine cottage, touring the Dingle Peninsula is amazing!  The views are stunning.  This stark landscape of steep mountainside farms and grass-covered cliffs is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean.  If trapped at home, you can use your local library or Netflix account to get peeks at Dingle in a bunch of Hollywood movies.  Ryan's Daughter is the big classic.  In the opening scenes of Far and Away, a youngish Tom Cruise fights with his brothers on a Dingle hillside.

Coumeenoole Beach

I had my first Irish coffee at Tig Slea Head on a cliff overlooking Coumeenoole Beach.

We stopped at one of the older sites on the island--the Gallarus Oratory.  It's name, in Irish, means "The Church of the Place of the Foreigners", its built only of stone, and it's thought to date back to sometime between 600-900AD.  There were no pews, no art, and I'm guessing the builders of this church would have considered an ideal attendance to be in the range of 8-10 people.

*Not Grass*

While trekking through some sort of unnamed bog on the peninsula, I sat on what looked like lush green grass only to find out that there is apparently some sort of Irish cactus.  I have recovered.

For dinner, we took advantage of the "early dinner" (read: jet lagged tourist) menu at The Chart House in downtown Dingle.  It was very nice, and neither of us fell asleep in our food. In fact, we even managed to go back to Murphy's Pub to listen to live Irish music.

Trip Journal Entry 1: Getting to Ireland

Wednesday, September 28th

9AM: At work, working hard so that I can take a half-day on Thursday.

12PM: Compulsively checking the flight status. Our cheap standby seats are looking iffy, as the number of empty seats dwindles.

2:30PM: No seats! I call Mom, then Isaac.

2:55PM: We decide that the only two options are flying out at 5:30pm or waiting several days (and having a much shorter vacation).

5:00PM: We get to the airport--mostly packed (I still can't figure out where my Sonicare ended up).

5:30PM: We're off!

Thursday, September 29th

10:30AM: We arrive in Dublin, sort of refreshed. Being early, we had no car or room reservations, so we stood around in the airport making use of free wifi to book both.

1:00PM-5:00PM: En route to Dingle. Isaac did a great job driving on the left side of the road, but the roads got narrower and narrower the further we got from Dublin. I think I probably said "that wall is realllly close" at least four times... and then I started closing my eyes.

7:00PM: Dinner in Murphy's Pub in Dingle. Our first pints of Guinness.

Our Trip to Ireland

Isaac and I just returned from a fantastic twelve day trek around Ireland. We hope to post pictures and notes about the places we stayed and the things we saw over the next week. For the moment, we thought a map would be a good place to start.


View Larger Map

Oatmeal Buttermilk Pancakes

I recently made these for a group dinner and received rave reviews.

2 Cups Oats
1/2 Cup Flour
3 T Sugar
1 t Baking Soda
1 t Baking Powder
1/2 t Salt
2 1/2 Cups Buttermilk
2 Eggs
1/4 Cup Butter
1 t Vanilla

Whisk buttermilk, eggs, butter and vanilla in a bowl. Add to dry ingredients. Allow to thicken for at least two hours.

An Evening of Ganpati

Isaac and I came home to an impressive neighborhood party this evening. The quality of the video clip is weak but it should give you some idea of what the festivities are like.

Ganpati

Yesterday marked the first day of Ganpati, a twelve day festival very popular in Mumbai. Our neighborhood began preparations weeks in advance so it was fun to see the end result. Unfortunately, we didn't bring our camera to the festivities so I would encourage you to look here.

Today should be interesting as well. Families gather together and bring their idols to the beach where they throw them in the water. The idols range in size from twelve inches to two stories high.

Using the ATM

I don't stop thinking about it just because I'm off work for the evening. The other day I went to the ATM machine for our bimonthly cash withdrawal. While I was standing there, it occured to me that the max daily withdrawal is more than enough to buy a girl here.

I can't pretend there won't always be people willing to do terrible things to children, but the hope in all this is that I think it's possible to make it too expensive to buy kids. Life doesn't have to be so cheap.

Brothel Tour

I was recently given the opportunity to tour a brothel. I expected the building to be dark, dirty, and crowded, but I was still overwhelmed when I walked through the door.

The building was five stories high and very narrow. Small rooms lined both sides of the hallways and each room held at least two beds. Cloth curtains were the only separation between beds. Drying laundry hung from the ceilings on every floor.

The scene became more and more depressing as we climbed the extremely steep wooden steps between each floor. Along the way we stopped and talked to a variety of people. A team from another NGO that provided medical care for the girls and a various assortment of prostitutes and madams. We were invited into the room of a pair of sisters so we spoke with them for quite a while (I should clarify, I sat quietly while the rest of the group spoke in Hindi). One of the sisters had been in the brothel for six months and the other had only been there for a month. The sister who had recently arrived said she didn't like it there and was looking for a way out. She wanted to get married and have a normal life. Both sisters agreed to visit the office of the local NGO the following day to discuss their options. A member of our team prayed with the girls and then we left. Unfortunately, I haven't heard if they followed through. (I feel like I should mention that this is not the typical reaction to outsiders. The girls are usually suspicious and nervous about outsiders so I felt pretty privileged to to be there for such a unique conversation.)

Besides meeting the girls, three things about the building stuck out to me. There was a tiny shop (about the size of a typical American coat closet) on the first floor that sold things like tobacco and biscuits, a fruit guy had carried a basket in and was selling his product on the 3rd floor, and I passed the power bill delivery guy on my way out. It looked like each room received a different power bill, I can't imagine how long it takes him to hand out all the bills.

Monsoon!

I am happy to report that rain has finally come to Mumbai. Besides alleviating the dust and water rationing, the rain is a welcome relief because it had gotten so humid it felt like I was walking around in a cloud. I guess with over 95% humidity, it couldn't get any muggier without rain!

While it's still fairly muggy at the hottest part of the day, I was able to walk around in jeans for over an hour Friday night without melting into a puddle.

We're back to full days with running water at the flat (was never a problem at the office), and we haven't needed the AC to sleep for several nights.

On the downside, I've learned that we may need to iron clothes after washing if we want to avoid mildew...

My First Indian Cooking Lesson

Lila, a friend from the office, was kind enough to give Stephanie and I a cooking lesson. Overall, the evening was a great success. We made aloo ghobi (cauliflower and potatoes), yellow dahl (lentils), and rotis. We did have one problem with the stove--about halfway through the food preparation flames started shooting out of one of the temperature knobs. Thankfully, we were able to turn the gas off before anything caught on fire.

I'm hoping to replicate the meal on my own in the near feature. Unfortunately, we didn't measure any of the spices so my version will either be too bland or too spicy.

Here are a few pictures for your enjoyment.

8 Traffickers Arrested, 34 Girls Rescued

Here’s some great news about a police rescue operation that successfully freed 34 victimized girls from sex traffickers just days ago. Below are links to three different accounts of the story. There’s a certain NGO that’s not mentioned in any of these articles, but I’m sure you can figure out what went down.

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CBI busts human trafficking racket, 8 arrested

Busting a major human trafficking racket, the CBI on Wednesday arrested eight persons for allegedly forcing minor girls from far off states and neighbouring countries into flesh trade >>

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Man held for forcing daughter, niece into flesh trade

He was one of eight pimps arrested in a raid that saw the rescue of 34 girls, including eight minors >>

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CBI busts flesh trade racket, 8 arrested

Eight persons have been arrested by the CBI for their alleged involvement in operating a flesh trade racket for the last two years involving at least 34 girls, some of whom were minors >>

Holi

Our office was closed on Wednesday for the Hindu festival Holi. I joined in the festivities at a friend's flat. It was a great day-definitely different than anything I've experienced before. Here are a few pictures for your enjoyment.



The day concluded with a three on three game of soccer on the roof of a 9 story building. I'm happy to say the ball only went over the side once.

We have visitors!

Andrea's parents are visiting, and we just got back from Udaipur, in the state of Rajasthan. Here are some teaser photos from our weekend at the old (pre-colonial) guest palace.

Galloping gaily astride the unruly horse of youth...

Some of the case law that I read feels like relatively generic criminal litigation. Sometimes, I am that I'm in a different world. In a 1991 decision by the High Court of the Indian state of Orissa, the judge berated the parents of a high school girl murdered by her tutor-turned-lover:

The accused may be legally responsible for the heinous and blood-curdling crime. We find that the parents allowed the relationship to blossom...
The family members of the deceased unmindful of the consequences allowed the deceased and the accused to have unguarded togetherness. They had time to soar high in the flights of fancy. ... An imaginative young mind was galloping gaily astride the unruly horse of youth. The consequences were expected, and it is not unnatural that there was emotional upheaval when the insolent parents suddenly woke up from their stupor, and tried to keep the deceased away from the company of the accused. Morally and ethically, therefore, the members of the family are as much responsible for the tragedy as the accused. ....We hope that this case shall be an eye- opener to the insolent parents and families, who in the name of modernity of society, shut their eyes to the realities and consequences.... As stated before, a bright young life has been lost, and the merits and talents of another young person are likely to be wasted. (Ashok Kumar Barik v. Orissa, 1992 Cri. L.J. 1849)

Let that be a lesson to you, insolent parents! How dare you hire a tutor for your merit scholar daughter. The decision goes on to quote an issue of the Pennsylvania Gazette from 1775, the Bible, several classical poets, and a variety of other sources decrying the decay of society.

Who cares what the girl's parents did--this kid hacked/stabbed a high school girl to death because she wouldn't talk to him!! I'm not sure whether it was hacking or stabbing because I don't know the English translation for "Bujili"--the weapon. I must remind myself that judges, lawyers, criminals are not necessarily great measures of a society. Maybe I'm failing to read between the lines and there is some other issue at work that isn't plainly obvious...

On a lighter note, I/we've taken the train down to central/south Mumbai several times in the past few weeks. It was great to get out of the suburban traffic and smog. Andrea and I walked the boardwalk at Chowpatty Beach, found some fun shops, and walked a few miles.

No one wants to see you kiss!

Despite being birthplace to the Kama Sutra, there are many in modern India who apparently see outward signs of cross-gender physical affection to be obscene and foreign to Indian culture. Young women occasionally get dragged out of bars by so-called morality police. Male friends are very physically affectionate with each other, holding hands, walking arm in arm, etc. The following article details one young married couple's near conviction for "obscenity in a public place." Case for repealing S.294(a) IPC

This really puts a crimp in my Valentine's Day plans...

The New Yorker just ran an interesting article about IJM

You can find a copy of Samantha Power's article from New Yorker magazine at https://media.scoopreprintsource.com/CondeNast/5376CN_Intn'lJustice_041409.pdf

Let me know what you think of the article, and of the issues covered within. Thanks!

Getting haircuts...

So I found a barber shop around the corner from our flat. It's very reasonably priced--30 rupees. It's a lot like any other barbershop experience, except that I don't understand 99% of my conversation with the barber. Last week, he asked if I was from England--I said U.S., and he told me he was from U.P.--a small state in the north of India. He also did a lot of talking or whispering to himself. I felt it would be (more) strange to ask the subject of his conversation.....

Of course, he stuttered a bit when he spoke in English, so I wonder if the self-talk was just his way of practicing conversational English?? Any stutterers out there willing to weigh in on this theory?

The barber shop also offers shaves and head massages. I tried the head massage--once. The guy strapped some sort of massaging, vibrating machine onto his hand and then oiled up my hair and went to town on my scalp with his rapidly buzzing, vibrating hand. It was all very pleasant until he JAMMED HIS FINGER INTO MY EAR! Yes...that's right...he apparently thought I might enjoy feeling his fingernail rattle against me ear canal and ear drum at several hundred oscillations per minute. My ear ached for several days, so I really don't recommend that technique.

On an only vaguely related subject, India recently received its own "remake" of the film Memento--titled Ghajini. I watched a friend's DVD copy of very dubious origins, and I can say that the film is absolutely nothing like the original. If I were forced to reduce this...experience into mere words, I would say that the film gives Charlie Kaufman a serious run for his money in the weird movie department. Ghajini is a musical, a revenge action movie, and a love story all rolled discordantly into one. You may ask, how could anyone possibly make that work?? Well, I've learned that the key to making a "romantic action thriller" is to open on an improbable love story starring Bollywood hottie Aamir Khan as a vigilante amnesiac whose entire history (and love story) is being recounted by nosy supporting players thanks to his detailed journals. This is still very weird--after all, you know almost from the very beginning that the female lead is going to get bludgeoned to death. I can't even describe the musical numbers--you just have to see this one for yourself. Apparently Ghajini will be airing in 22 countries with English subtitles. I strongly suggest that you find a time that you will not be taking any decongestants, antihistamines, or prescription painkillers, and sit down with this bizarre film. I can't promise that you'll be glad you watched it, but you'll definitely be entertained!

For folks in the Seattle area, this is apparently showing at Totem Lake Cinemas. Don't miss your chance! Folks in DC will just have to flood their local theaters with petitions, I guess....

What is the vague relationship between Ghajini and my barbershop? Ahmir Khan had a really crappy haircut in Ghajini, and film promoters had clippers outside theaters on opening weekend, offering teenagers the chance to receive a similarly terrible haircut. In his defense, he was supposed to have an enormous scar from being whacked in the head with an iron pipe...

Free Deliveries...

So, upon reflection, I have decided that my blog posts may leave the impression that I see nothing positive in Mumbai, so I've resolved to highlight a few fun things.

Andrea and I enjoy the fact that almost every business in Mumbai will deliver their product for free. We are currently enjoying membership in Librarywala, an online library (somewhat like Netflix) that charges us about $4/month for 6 books per month. Librarywala delivers them to our door via courier, and often makes the delivery or pickup within one business day of our request. Since we don't own a television, have no English language radio, and the only other way to get books is to buy them for ~$10 each, the library option is desirable.

Our local grocer, butcher, and newsstand deliver their products to our door. The big hypermarket delivered the ~$10 power strip I needed for free, from about an hour away (they also called about 6 times to confirm that the order had been delivered successfully).

I work late pretty regularly, but thankfully, all the local food we often order is delivered to our door for free. An order of chicken tikka masala and rice is delivered to our door for less than cooking our own food at home!

On the downside, there is apparently no structured address system either for Mumbai in general, or perhaps just for this part of town. Instead, our address includes two lines that basically give the postal workers landmarks within our PIN code (zip code). Getting deliveries from outside the neighborhood can get interesting, because I think the folks often end up driving miles of back roads until they spot the name of our housing cooperative. They arrive to our door sweaty and apologetic, having raced up 6 flights of stairs.

I need to figure out whether the older section of the town also lacks addresses.
GPS would really be handy here!